The Napali Coast and Kalalau Valley. My best overall hiking experience anywhere.
The Na Pali coast, on the island of Kauai in Hawaii ends at Kalalau Valley. The trail is a challenge and it rewards those who hike it like no other destination I have experienced. I have been overwhelmend by many a fantastic trail in several countries including Japan, the North Cascades, Mt. Rainier and the Olympics in Washington State and some dream trails in Costa Rica.
The memory of hiking the Napali trail and Kalalau valley endures in my memory more sharply than any other. It is not just visually mind blowing. There is a kinesthetic imprint that is impossible to describe, except that you always want more long after you have left the place.
The Kalalau trail begins at the end of the highway on the north side of Kauai. Warnings abound there that the trail is steep and hangs on the edge of mountains. It is nearly straight down to the ocean. Constant attention is demanded of the hiker to prevent a fatal fall. The first break in this hike is at the bottom of a tropical valley called Hanakapiai. There is a worthwhile side trail deep into the lush valley to Hanakapiai Falls. The stream from that falls flows into wild ocean just below the place where the trail crosses it.
The beach is both beautiful and dangerous. There are no life guards. The warnings are crudely posted on signs, including those where handwritten tallies of drowning deaths are added all too frequently. If dragged out to sea here, there is little chance of being rescued. Don’t swim here. Just take in the beauty, camp if you like, or continue on toward Kalalau Valley. At Hanakapiai, you will have covered the first 2 miles. There are 9 more miles, much more difficult than the first 2. You can look forward to Hanakoa Valley about 4 or 5 miles farther away.
The Kalalau Trail exceeds my descriptive abilities. After a heavy duty workout and views that neither Kodachrome or the best digital camera can capture, you will find yourself back down to a small, streamside place called Hanakoa. It is a stream crossing, a ways back of a beach. There is a little wooden shelter where you can sleep should it be raining, but it is first come, first serve. Many hikers, probably most, choose to
spend the night at Hanakoa.
It may seem to experienced hikers that 6 miles is just a good start. That is true for the real “hard core” folks, but the hardest part of the hike is about to come. Give yourself time by leaving you Hanakoa camp early in the morning. It isn’t possible to describe what you are about experience. Every few hundred yards has and emotional impact that you cannot regenerate except by visiting a second time. The ocean is in view, usually nearly straight down, from most places. The vegetation changes constantly, and mixes with the ocean breeze producing an infinite number of fragrances.
Eventually, you will find yourself on a high hill above the Kalalau Valley and the Kalalau Beach. The earth beneath you feet will be mostly bare and a vivid red color. It is known to frequent visitors as Red Hill. the ocean will be on your right, the vast, white Kalalau Beach is strait ahead with blue water throwing white waves and foam onto the beach. For most of it’s length, the wide beach ends abruptly on the left against high, black cliffs. The bottom of these cliffs is the beach itself. At several places the beach sand enters wide, shallow caves at the base of the cliffs. These are seldom reached by the waves during the summer and provide some welcome shade.
After making your way down slope of Red Hill, you will find yourself on floor of Kalalau Valley. Guava trees and other vegitation will be a welcome experience. Even better, the fantastic Kalalau Stream will offer you an opportunity to cool off. There are plenty of little swim holes. Oh boy! Most people continue on, drawn by the beach. Be careful about entering the ocean. You are now awfully far from any rescue should you be drawn out to sea.
Should you want to see the Kalalau Valley and the cliffs of the Na Pali coast with the hike, there are several helicopter tours offered that will give visual treats without the sweat. You can also view the outer parts of Kalalau Valley and the whole length of the Na Pali Coast from tours offered in charter boats and guided kayak tours. Whew!